Thats internal stuff, and too me a timing belt is internal.Dosbricks wrote:Thanks for the input, b4miata. , so why not spend the extra 200 while its apart. Hey its only a 5k motor repair when the belt slips, or. then bitch 10k later when something fails or in the case of these cars, say no dont do the water pump, adn a few k down the road, need a waterpump adn complain that you suggest you need to pull the timing belt to do it, and tell them the cost.oh we are such crooked mechanicsįrom new, zero miles, I like to suggest replace everything every other belt change In defence of indy wrench people, often a person will be told, we can do yoru timing belt for xxx dollars, we can replace everything thats in there for +++ dollars, what do you want to do.ĩ0% of the time the owner will go cheap. even though I enjoy working on cars, I dont want to go back in in a few k, shoot, im 60+ now, and that car in a few k, who knows what shape Ill be in for twisting wrenches If your paying someone to twist wrenches, then I would have everything redone if it has over 150k on it.
If your doing the work, adn can do the work, and dont mind going back in in a few thousand miles, than let it go if its not leaking, but how do you kow when it does start to leak or loose pressure ? like at 70mph, 3 hours form home ? This is going down tomorrow.well saturday - the 14th. Any tips or suggestions are very welcome. I have to drive the car home from Quebec to Nova Scotia. they didn't seem to bother with anything temperature related if I remember correctly. And what about the several tutorials I've seen around for timing belt and related (even here on MVS). My question is how much am I looking at to get just the tensioner pulley done at a dealer, versus an indy shop do you think?Īnd what do you think the cost would be to go ahead and just get everything done? Pulleys, roller(s?), water pump etc.?ĮDIT: Oh, and is it true it should be done at a dealer (the tensioner pulley) due to some temperature adjustment?! I don't like the sounds of that. I'm verrry worried about driving it because I've had nothing but bad luck this past year. I don't know why garages don't know and maybe suggest that everything should be done at the one time (maybe they do), maybe the are expecting that return business for the $4000.00 worth of damage for not doing it all. I had my tensioner pulley on my '98 S70 SE5 (T5) go on the highway and ruin life.Īnyway, I'm about to buy another used 98 S70 tomorrow, it has 220k and had the timing belt done at 180k but I think that's all that was done. Would new timing related components (water pump, belts, tensioners etc), possible valves and that stuff, then a resurfaced/machined head fix this for sure, or might there also be damage to the Block? cogs, and start cutting through the TB cover? I guess what happened in actuality (correct if wrong) is that the tensioner went bad and the belt lost tension, and the slack allowed it to jump teeth and start to walk off the. How should I go about testing, seeing what's going on tomorrow after I take the TB cover off. Here is a link to the thread I started: So, lets say worst case scenario if the pistons slapped the valves, or I have bend rods/damaged stems/valves, is this all damage to the head and other parts - what I'm asking I guess is would the block be damaged? Could the cylinder walls be damaged or what?
#VOLVO S70 TIMING BELT TENSIONER SERIAL NUMBER#
Serial Number on TB Cover is 134770 - making it the mechanical tension, right?
And I'm guessing the damage will be even more serious than I thought so far. So this sounds like what I had happen to me just yesterday then. Volvo should have red flagged this in the owners manual. When the tensioner fails and the belt jumps tooth, the pistons are going to slap the valves resulting in about $4000 damage. People with engine #1266128 and above need to know that they should take their cars to the dealer for T-belt changes so the tensioner will get changed also.
Dosbricks wrote:Thanks for the input, b4miata.
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